A History of
Watauga County, NC
J P Arthur
Chapter VII
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Page78
Order of the Holy Cross.
A Graphic Picture.-- In 1840 a botanist from New York visited what
is now Valle Crucis, and on his return interested Bishop L. Silliman
Ives, then bishop of the Episcopal Church of North Carolina, in this
locality. Following is a description of the country at that time:(1)
"In 1840 the valley of the Watauga, in North Carolina, was a
secluded region, isolated and forgotten, a mountain wilderness,
showing only here and there the first rude touches of civilization.
The narrow, winding trail or foot-path, the rough sled-road, often
dangerous for wheels, here and there a log cabin, with a narrow,
rouch clearing about it, or at long intervals a rude saw-mill or
grist mill, with perchance a small, unpainted frame dwelling, or a
blacksmith shop and a humble backwoods store, making the beginning
of a hamlet, such were the only traces of human habitation to be
found on the banks of the stream. But the highland valley was
magnificent in natural beauty. It lay in the elevated country
between the Blue Ridge and the Alleghanies, nearly three thousand
feet above the sea while grand old mountains of successive ranges,
broken into a hundred peaks, rose to nearly double the height on
either hand, many so near that their distinctive features could be
clearly seen, while others were only dimly outlined in the distance.
These mountain ranges were peculiarly interesting, differing in some
particulars from those of any other parts of the country. The
vegetation was singularly rich and varied. The valley, entirely shut
in by forest-clad mountains, was watered by three small, limpid
streams, two of them leaping down the hillsides in foaming cascades;
the principal stream, formed by the junction, after a short course
of two miles, passing through a narrow gorge, threw itself into the
Watauga."
__________
Note: (1) From William West Skiles; "A sketch of Missionary Life
at Valle Crucis, 1843-1862." Edited by Susan Fenimore Cooper, 1890,
pp.5, 6.
Page 79
Valle Crucis.-- There is , perhaps, more interest in this place and
its romantic history than in any other in Watauga County. It is
called the Valley of the Cross because of the fancied resemblance to
that symbol of our faith caused by two creeks, each flowing from an
opposite direction into Dutch Creek--Clark's, which rises under the
Grandfather and flows into the right bank of Dutch Creek, which has
its sources in Hanging Rock, while nearly opposite the mouth of
Clark's Creek, and coming in from the left, is Crab Orchard Creek,
flowing from the neighborhood of Banner's Elk.(1) There is a dreamy
spell which hangs over this little valley, lending its charm to the
story of the spiritual doubts that once perplexed the soul of a good
man in his struggles to see the true light of Christianity. He was
not the first, nor will he be the last, to grope in semi-darkness,
turning hither and thither in his bewilderment; loving and clinging
to past ties, yet dreading to follow where they led; adventuring by
fits and starts on certain paths, and, like a frightened child,
returning again to the known ways of his childhood and earlier
manhood, till, at last, the final step was taken beyond all recall.
Rt. Rev. L. Silliman Ives.-- Second bishop of North Carolina, from
May, 1831, to December 22, 1852,(2) was born September 16, 1797, in
Meriden, Conn., and in his youth was a Presbyterian. In his young
manhood he became an Episcopalian, while in later years he made his
submission to the Catholic Church of Rome. He is said to be the only
bishop of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America who ever went
over to the Roman Catholic Church. He became rector of St. Luke's
Episcopal Church in New York City, married Rebecca Hobart, daughter
of the Rt. Rev. John Henry Hobart, Episcopal bishop of New York
State, to which union was born one child who did not live to
maturity. While quite young he served a short time with the troops
under General Pike in the War of 1812, after which he determined to
study for the ministry of the Presbyterian Church, and fot that
__________
Note: (1) According to De Rossett's Church History of North
Carolina, Valle Crucis was named in honor of an old English abbey by
that name. Its altitude is 2,726 feet.
(2) He published "The Trials of a Mind in Its Progress to
Catholicism," 233 pages, Boston and New York, in 1854.
Page 80
purpose, in 1816, entered Hamilton College, New York, at Clinton,
where he remained but a year, when, his health failing, he changed
his faith and, in 1819, began to study for the Episcopal ministry.
After his visit to Italy in 1852, he became professor of rhetoric in
St. Joseph's Theological Seminary, New York, and lectured in the
convents of the Sacred Heart and Sisters of Charity and in public.
He established in New York City two charitable institutions for the
protection of destitute Catholic children, of both of which he was
president. He published many works. He died in Manhattanville, N.
Y., October 13, 1867, and was buried in the Catholic Protectory,
Westchester County, New York. His wife, who was born February 6,
1803, died August 3, 1863. Bishop Ives served the Catholic Church
only as a layman, being barred from the priesthood on account of his
marriage.
"A Feeble and Undignified Imitation."--From "The Bishops of North
Carolina," from which most of the above was taken, we learn (p. 112)
that by "1849 the Mission at Valle Crucis had begun to drift away
from the teachings of the Church, and was fast becoming a feeble and
undignified imitation of the monastic institutions of the Church of
Rome," but, with the exception of this error, we are told in
"Sketches of Church History in North Carolina" (p. 337) that
"Whatever we may think of the strange ideas and practices which
Bishop Ives engrafted on to the associate work which he established
at Valle Crucis, his conception that this was the most practical and
efficient way to reach the cattered populations of the mountains was
fully justified in the results which remain to this day." On page 80
of the same work we read that there had been three ordinations, one
priest and two deacons, at Valle Crucis, while at least eight young
men had there prepared for the ministry. William R. Gries, William
Passmore, George Patterson, Frederick Fitz Gerald, Joseph W. Murphey,
Richard Wainwright Barber, Charles T. Bland, William West Skiles,
Thomas F. Davis, Jr., and others were at one time or another
connected with this mission. So concerned was the Church throughout
the State by the rumors which came from the mountains as to this
brotherhood,
Page 81
or "Order of the Holy Cross," that United States Senator George E.
Badger issued a booklet on the Doctrines of Bishop Ives, and that
this interest has not subsided is shown by the very interesting
account of Valle Crucis which was published in the Messenger of Hope
for February, 1909.
Cause of His Vacillation.-- In the spring of 1848 Bishop Ives had a
severe attack of fever while in attendance upon the general
convention in New York City. From this, it is claimed, he never
recovered his mental poise. It is also stated (p. 132) in the
"Bishops of North Carolina" that his father died from a
self-inflicted wound while temporarily insane, while Bishop Ives'
own brother wrote, February 25, 1853 (p. 133), that there was a
tendency to insanity in the family. It is stated in the "Life of W.
W. Skiles" (p. 91) that at the convention of the Church, held at
Fayetteville in 1851, the committee of inquiry reported the bishop
as being "in a high state of nervous excitement, arising either from
bodily disease or constitutional infirmity, in which he admitted
that he had been insensibly led to teaching and believing opinions
on matters of doctrin, of the impropriety of which he was then fully
satisfied. He mentioned having tolerated the Romish notion of the
Invocation of Saints, Auricular Confession and Absolution, but had
always abhorred the doctrine of Transubstantiation, while the
spiritual presence of Christ in the Eucharist was the doctrine our
church teaches," and he signed a paper to the above effect.
The Old Buildings.-- These were a saw mill, a log kitchen and dining
room, a log dwelling containing four rooms and a frame building (60'
X 20') with a room at each end for teachers, together with a large
hall for school purposes in the center, all on the ground floor,
while over the whole was a dormitory for boys. All of these were
ready for use and occupancy in 1845. "The adobes used in the
buildings were made of clay and straw as usual, and were considered
to be a good quality. But they soon began to crumble away, and in
the course of the summer they were attacked by an unforseen
enemy--the humble bees took possession of them, burrowing into the
fresh clay to such an extent that the walls in many places looked
like honey-combs,
Page 82
and were so much weakened that they gave way in places under the
weight above them." From which it was concluded by the students that
there could have been no humble bees in Egypt in the time of the
Pharoahs (p. 37).
Easter Chapel.-- Less than a mile below the home of the Widow Moody,
on the left bank of the Watauga River and two miles above Shull's
Mills, is the site of this old chapel, now gone. A "man in
affliction" had given Mr. Prout $300.00, out of which he built Ester
Chapel on a large rock two hundred yards from the Watauga River,
with a spring at its base. It was of logs, hewn by Levi Moody, the
widow's son, "a good, guiltless man." It was fifteen feet wide by
forty feet long, and had a little chancel at the east end, with
oaken alter beneath a narrow window. The roof was steep, and each
side wall contained a small window. The rafters showed from the
inside, while rude benches afforded seats for those who came to
worship. It was called Easter with especial reference to the
doctrine of the resurrection and in connection with the devotion of
the mountaineers in keeping that great festival. The Grandfather
Mountain looms in the distance. But a limb from an overhanging tree
crushed the roof of the chapel, and the balance of the building,
after the Civil War, went rapidly to decay. A wind-storm on the 4th
of March, 1893, threw the walls to the ground, all except two of the
sills, which still remain, slowly passing into dust and decay. The
logs out of which these walls have been built were of poplar, and
were three feed broad by four or five inches thick. Thus, three of
them sufficed to make a wall nine feet high. If this be doubted, a
small cabin now (1915) standing near will substantiate the fact of
the possibility of such a thing, as one of its walls has but three
long in it, each log being three feet broad. Rev. J. Norton Atkins
now owns the house formerly built by Rev. Henry H. Prout which
stands near,(1) though Mrs. J. F. Coffey owns the rock on which the
chapel used to stand. The perennial spring, however, spoken of in a
note on page 96 of Skiles' Life, has disappeared, blasting for a new
road, which was never built, having caused it to sink.
__________
Note: (1) Rev. W. R. Savage purchased this track from Isabella
Danner, or Dana, she having "heired" it from her father, Larkin
Calloway. (Deed Book 6, p. 209.) Mr. Savage sold it to Mr. Norton.
Page 83
The Widow Moody.--Among those spoken of with affection by Mr. Prout
was Mrs. Edward Moody. She was a sister of Col. John Carter, for
whom Carter County, Tennessee, was named and in honor of whose wife
Elizabethton, the capital of that county, was called. She and her
husband came from Augusta County, Virginia, soon after the
Revolutionary War, in which he had fought and where he was seriously
wounded. Of her Mr. Prout said: "The house of the Widow Moody was
long a sort of social center on the Upper Watauga. Here the
missionary [himself] first learned, in 1842, that a log cabin may
shelter happy people. More generous, sweeter Christian hospitality,
more glad, more cheerful kindness are seldom met with thn this
worthy family showed me when a stranger and alone. There was a
native refinement and a balance of judgment about the character of
the mother of the family. I shall not soon forget her invariable
reply to the inquiries of her friends when asking after her
welfare--she was blind, with many infirmities, and yet the answer of
Christian faith never failed: 'Thank God, no reason to complain.'
There was in that far-off settlement a simplicity of manner, a
generous tone, not often excelled, a graceful modesty, an unassuming
dignity, very rare, but in harmony with the grand and beautiful
scenery of the region" (p. 87). This house was two stories high,
with two shed-rooms, and contained six rooms in all. It stood in the
old orchard between the Grave Yard Ridge, where Edward Moody is
buried, and the former residence of Sheriff Calloway.
The lower Settlement.-- Rev. W. W. Skiles had most to do with the
establishment of a school and church at this point, which is at
Ward's store, several miles below Valle Crucis. The first service
was held in a small log cabin. "Men and women came in, many on foot,
some on horseback, the wife in sun-bonnet and straight, narrow gown,
riding behind her husband. Here and there a woman was seen mounted n
a steer, with a child or two in her arms, while the husband, walking
beside them, goad in hand, guided the animal over the rough path.
The women all wore sun-bonnets or handkerchiefs tied over their
heads. Some were bare-footed. There were many more feet than shoes
in
Page 84
the congregation. The Boys and girls, even when full grown, were
often bare-footed. This was, no doubt, the first service of our
church held in that region. And it was declared to be the first
religious service of any kind held on the Watauga for seven years"
(p. 13). This statement was confirmed by Rev. L. W. Farthing, who
then lived on Beaver Dams, near by, but now lives within a few
hundred yards of the site on which old St. John's Chapel first
stood. Owing to the inaccessibility of the place and the fewness of
preachers, no service had been held there during the time stated.
(1) The log house soon became too small, and a larger one was
obtained. "The pupils tried very hard to learn their lessons well.
Occasionally some of the parents would come in and pore intently
over the spelling book" (p. 14)
At the Store.--Mr. Skiles kept store at Valle Crucis for the
Mission, s well as practical medicine and taught school. "Or a load
of goods, brought with great toil over the mountain roads from
Morganton or Lenoir, consisting of tea, coffee, sugar, mustard,
pepper, salt, farm tools, nails, screws, etc., a few packages of the
more common medicines . . . boots and shoes, school books, paper,
pens, ink, with a very modest supply of general stationery;
needless, pins, thread, tape, buttons, with perchance a few pieces
of calico, flannels and shirting . . ." "Some few, very few, in
fact, came in rude wagons, others on horseback, some on steers, many
on foot. Most of them carried a gun, a backwoods custom very common
in that region; frequently a hound or two followed. The sack of
grain was carried on the shoulders by those on foot. The men were,
many of them, clad in home-spun tow shirts and short trousers,
without coat or shoes even in winter. They were rarely in a hurry,
the movement of the country people of that region almost always
being slow and deliberate. They were strong, healthy, quiet and
composed, frequently ruddy from exposure. A number smoked
__________
Note: (1) There was only a trail from Beaver Dams to the Hix
Settlement. A chopped-out way, known as Daniel Boone's trail, let
from Elizabethton up Watauga river, via Beech Creek and Windy Gap.
It was by this trail that Rev. James Eden came to the Hix Settlement
to preach the sermon of Andrew Harman when he was killed some six
years before Mr. Prout came. Mr. Harman had been killed by a tree
which fell on him.
Page 85
corncob pipes; even women rode on steerss with children in their
arms (p. 111). Seven deer within limits of Valle Crucis were killed
in 1854" (p. 114).
After the Civil War.--From the death of Mr. Skiles, there was no
minister in this section representing the Episcopal Church till Rev.
George H. Bell was ordained in 1883. At his instance St. John's was
moved from its beautiful situation near Ward's Store, on Lower
Watauga, six miles below Valle Crucis, to its present location on
the right bank of Watauga River, two miles higher up the stream. Its
location is fine, but the change was made not so much for a better
site as for the purpose of serving both the upper and lower
communities, there then being no mission or chapel above that point.
Now, however, that there is a chapel at the Mission School at Valle
Crucis, it would be better if St. John's were on its former site.
Rev. Milnor Jones succeeded Mr. Bell, coming in 1895, and work was
resumed that year under Bishop Cheshire. Then, in September, 1902,
Rev. Wm. Rutherford Savage came and has been in this section even
since. He is located at Blowing Rock. Serving with him were Rev.
Hugh A. Dobbin, who was ordained August 6, 1909, and Rev. John
Norton Atkins, who was ordained December 22, 1907. In 1914 Mr.
Dobbin left Valle Crucis to take charge of the Patterson School for
Boys on the Yadkin, after which time Rev. Floyd W. Tomkins, son of
the distinguished Rev. Dr. Tomkins, of Philadelphia, took charge of
Valle Crucis, St. John's and Dutch Creek Mission. Mr. Savage has
charge of Blowing Rock. The chapel at Todd was built in 1910, and is
in charge of Mr. Atkins, with Boone, Easter Chapel and others
chapels in Ashe County. Rt. Rev. Junius M. Horner was consecrated
bishop of the Missionary District of Asheville December 28, 1898.
The house now used as the rectory was built by Mr. Jones, and was
then called the Mission House. The log house just across the Banner
Elk road was built by Bishop Ives, and is the only one of the old
Ives buildings now remaining. Bishop Horner brought back the upper
part of the Valle Crusis properly from E. F. Lovill, Esq.,
administrator
Page 86
of James P. Taylor, who had obtained it from his father, Henry
Taylor, June 2, 1893. The deed is dated December 4, 1903 and the
consideration is $3,500.00 for the 525 acres conveyed. (Book I, p.
592.)
Rev. William West Skiles.-- This good man was born in 1797, came to
Watauga County soon after the school was started at Valle Crucis,
studied theology and medicine, and made himself generally useful and
helpful to all with whom he came into contact. He died at the home
of Col. John B. Palmer, on Linville River, December 8, 1862, and his
remains were buried first in the graveyard of the first St. John's,
but moved in 1889 to their present resting place in the graveyard of
the present church of that name a few miles below Valle Crucis. He
taught school, kept store and practiced medicine among the poor
people of this county for many years. He never married. He is still
remembered by many of the older people of Watauga and vicinity. His
life was full of good deeds.
"The Angelus."-- Although a bugle was used to summon the little
Valle Crucis family to work and to worship, there is, nevertheless,
something about the story of the old institution, combined with the
name of the valley and its atmosphere and surroundings, which recall
the lines of Bret Hart's famous poem. "The Angelus:"
"Bells of the past, whose long forgotten music
Still fills the wide expanse,
Tingering the sober twilight of the present
With color of romance;
I hear your call, and see the sun descending
O'er rock and hill and sand,
As, down the coast, the mission voices blending,
Girdle the sunny land." |