A History of
Watauga County, NC
J P Arthur
Chapter XIV -Part 3

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til about 1895, though a trail went through there "furder back" than
anyone now remembers.(1) Behind a thick laurel, near where Napoleon
Banner now lives, was the camp of a man named Ollis, who was hiding
out during the Revolutionary War. Ashes and coals can still be
plowed up near that place. He used to live, as did Samuel Hix, by
hunting and making a crop of potatoes in a little patch, ekeing out
his simple fare with maple syrup and sugar from the maple trees
which had made this section their home time out of mind, and which
gave its name to Sugar Mountain. After awhile Burton Baird,
Delilah's son, married the Widow Keller, and her daughter Aurilda,
called "Rildy" for short, married Levi Moody. Below Harrison
Aldrich's house on head of Watauga River lived Tom Fudge and two old
maids, one of whom was named Laudermilk, for whom he milked, tended
garden and did other work.(2) He had a little gun with a very short
barrel. He was a little dried-up man, but useful to these two
forlorn women. William Baird lived at what is now called Matny. Mike
Snider lived at what is now called Elk Park, where he operated a
small grist mill. Down at Old Fields of Toe lived James Calloway and
the Maxfield family, the Clarks and Braswells living above that
place, and there after the Civil War Gen. Robert F. Hoke and
associates, James Wilson and Sam. McD. Tate, decided that sheep
raising in these mountains would be profitable, got control of the
Old Fields of Toe,(3) imported a genuine Scotch shepherd and a
genuine Scotch shepherd dog, several fine bucks, and then bought up
over a hundred natives ewes. It did not pay as well as had been
expected, native dogs being too much for the one imported collie.
Even the tie-tie business for pipe stems was carried on. John Hardin
and his son, Jordan, moved from the Hardin place, a mile
__________
Note: (1) Shep. M. Dugger, the distinguished author of the
"Balsam Groves of the Grandfather Mountain," and his brother-in-law,
J. Erwin Calloway, built the Grandfather hotel, half a mile from
Linville Gap, in 1885; but it was burned in 1914. It served a good
purpose as a resting-place for tourists to the Grandfather Mountain.
(2) In 1857 Newton, Ab. and Luther Banner, caught trout in the North
Toe River, and ran with them to the head of Banner Elk, crossing at
Sugar Gap, replenishing the water as they went, and this stocked Elk
Creek above Elk Falls. Rev. H. H. Prout also stocked Linville River
above the Falls from head of Watauga River. (3) A man named
Birchfield was probably among the first settlers at the Old Fields
of Toe, dying there of milk-sick many years ago.
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east of Boone, and lived at Crenberry forge from about 1850 til
after the Civil War, during which jordan had charge of the property.
John Hardin died in 1873. Between these places and Banner's Elk
there was constant communication. The rapid development of Banner's
Elk and its surrounding country, including all the places named
herein, is too recent to need recording here. The coming of the Rev.
Edgar Tufts, however, was the most fortunate event in the history of
that section. (See chapter on Schools.)
On Foot to Banner's Elk.– Miss Morley gives us this account of her
trip to Banner's Elk. Does that "gold tree" still stand we wonder?
The only way to find out is to go and see.
"From Valle Crucis to Banner Elk, under the Beech Mountain, is
another day's walk, when again you take the longest way up Dutch
Creek to see the pretty waterfall there and where the clematis is a
white veil over the bushes, and up the steep road by Hanging Rock
where the gold tree grows. This is an oak, known far and near
because its top is always golden yellow. The leaves come out yellow
in the spring, remain so all summer, and in the fall would doubtless
turn yellow if they were not already that color. The people say
there is a pot of gold buried at the roots, but this pleasant fancy
has not taken a serious enough hold to menace the life of the tree.
"Stopping at a picturesque, old time log house to rest, a little
girl invites you to go to the top of Hanging Rock, which invitation
you gladly accept, thereby getting one of the most enjoyable walks
of the summer, your little guide telling you all the way about the
flowers and the birds and stopping under an overhanging cliff with
great secrecy to show you a round little bird's nest with eggs in it
cleverly hidden in the moss. One suspects it was the chance to show
this treasure that led the child to propose the long climb to the
top of the mountain. The gooseberries of Hanging Rock are without
prickles, perhaps because the wild currants growing there have
stolen them. Imagine prickly currants! There is plenty of galax on
Hanging Rock, the mosses and sedums and all the other growths that
make mountain tops so agreeable. The top of Hanging Rock is a
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slanting ledge, from which the mountain gets its name. At Banner Elk
you will want to stay awhile, it is so pretty, and you will also
want to climb the beautiful Beech Mountain with its grassy spaces
and its charming beech groves.
"From Banner Elk you take the short walk over to 'Calloways,' close
under the shadow of the Grandfather, and from here the long and
beautiful walk down the Watauga River at the base of the
Grandfather, then along the ridges back to Blowing Rock, watching as
you go details of the mountains beneath whose northern front you are
passing. The open benches, the rocky bluffs and abrupt, tree-clad
walls of this side of the mountain, which we call the back of the
Grandfather, are not impressive like those long southern slopes
sweeping from a summit of a little less than six thousand feet down
into the foothills. For the mountain on this side is stopped by the
high plateau from which it rises. Yet it is good to be at the back
of the Grandfather. From the Watauga road we see the profile from
which the mountain is said to have received its name, although one
gets a better and far more impressive view of it from a certain
point on the mountain itself.
"And so you return to Blowing Rock after days of wandering, only to
rest awhile and start again, gaining endurance with every trip until
the ten miles' walk that cost you a little weariness becomes the
twenty miles' walk that costs you none. You cannot tire of the road
for every mile brings new sights, new sounds, new fragrances, new
friends, new flowers, one charm of walking here being the endless
variety. No two days are alike; each has its own pleasant
adventures."
Meat Camp.–This was one of the first places to be settled in Ashe
County, William Miller, the Blackburns and James Jackson going there
from the Jersey Settlement as early as 1799, while Ebenezer
Fairchild, of the same colony, settled on Howard's Creek, only a
short distance away. Jackson's grave is still pointed out in the
woods near the site of the old Jackson Meeting House, while the
cabin of an old hunter named Abbey stood in what now is the garden
of John C. Moretz. Brown got the first grant to land on this creek,
part of the Lindsey Patterson
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farm, before he had ever seen it, having entered it from the natural
boundaries furnished him by Daniel Boone and his associates. The
cabin in which the old hunters stored their meat and hides when on
hunts in this region stood in a rocky patch just above the bend of
Moretz's mill pond, the foundation of the old chimney still showing
above ground. It was this camp and the use to which it was put as
sort of primitive packing house that gave the name of Meat Camp to
the creek. John Moretz and his wife and family came to Meat Camp in
September, 1839. There was already an old mill there when he came,
which he bought form Samuel Cooper, who then moved to Meadow Creek.
The dam of the old mill was of logs, but John Moretz put sixty men
to work erecting the stone dam which still stands. With the grinding
and other work of the mill was also a carding machine. But late in
the fall of 1847 the mill burned, the supposed act of an incendiary,
as it occurred just before day. But he rebuilt, leaving out the
linseed oil feature only. After his death Alfred J. Moretz tore that
mill down and built the one which still stands. Alfred Moretz moved
to his present home at Deep Gap in April 1885.
The Rich Mountain.–This mountain deserves its name, for it is richer
than most bottom lands. This is true of the top as well as of the
slopes and coves. It is said that Ezra Stonecypher lived in a cabin
above T. P. Adams' barn, and ashes and charcoal are still plowed up
there. But, like Daniel Boone, Ezra loved plenty of elbow-room, and
so, when a man moved on to Cove Creek and settled there, Ezra moved
to Norris's Fork of Meat Camp and built a poplar log cabin. This was
several miles from the Cove Creek intruder, and Ezra was happy for a
time, but only for a time, as another pushing person obtruded
himself on Meat Camp and settled there, which was the straw that
broke the camel's back, for Ezra pulled up stakes and moved to
Kentucky. One of his sons met Col. Thomas Bingham there during the
Civil War, and proved that he knew all about Rich Mountain and that
section of the county. Then Dr. Calloway, it seems, got a grant to
two tracts called the Big and Little Cay-vit (Caveat?), and after
awhile, say about 1840 or 1845, Col. Edmund Jones got
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title to some of the mountain and pastured his cattle there. Several
people have lived at what is still called the Jones Place on Rich
Mountain, but Allen Beech went there from Caldwell in 1848 and
remained several years, his son, Allen W., having been born there
February 11, 1854. The late Hon. R. Z. Linney bought the Tater Hill
and other land on the Rich Mountain about 1902 and had a turnpike
built from the Rich Mountain Gap above Boone to the gap in Rich
Mountains above Silverstone, through which a road from Meat Camp
passes over to Cove Creek and Zionville. Dr. H. McD. Little owns
part of the Rich mountain and pastures many cattle there. The
two-story rock house on Dr. Little's land was built by Col. R. Z.
Linney and stands on what is also known as the Jones Place. Part of
this rock house fell down in June, 1915.
The Tater Hill.–No one ever makes any apology for calling this
striking mountain peak by its real name--Tater Hill. For it was
never a potato hill, potatoes being mere ornaments for the skill of
French chefs. Taters are what we were "raised" on, while city
children were "reared" on potatoes. The first man to see the charm
of this lonely spot was one Chapley Wellburn. He entered it in
April, 1799, four hundred acres of it, and lived there, probably
hunting for a living, the people who live on lower levels being the
only ones who indulge in the pastime of earning a "livelihood."
Well, he thought he had a title to that land, and in 1876 J.B. Todd,
by order of the court, conveyed this title to one of his descendants
in Wilkes (Deed Book R, p. 108). But Alfred Adams knew a thing or
two, one of them being that adverse possession under color of title
would "ripen" that title into an "indefeasible estate of
inheritance," or words to that general effect. So he got the very
best "color" "the air," to wit, a grant from the sovereign State of
North Carolina--not from Sovereign Linn, who was living in this
county at that time. Adams occupied about three hundred acres of his
grant, and when he locked horns with H. M. and W. N. G. Wellburn,
through his grantee, John H. Bingham, about the year 1902, over the
entire four hundred acres and other lands also, he won three hundred
of them handily. (See Minute Docket E. p. 154, Clerk's Office.) It
developed in the trial of that suit that one
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Flannery, meaning not necessarily that he had no family, but that he
might have been almost any Flannery, claimed the land in the
flatwoods under Tater Hill, but left about 1849, after which a man
named James, but whether John James or James John is not known, came
and brought a pack of hounds with him. Hounds have to eat. So do
wolves. In the duel to see which should eat the other, the wolves
won. James thought his turn might come next, either to eat or to be
eaten, so he returned to Alexander County, whence he had come,
which, sad as that fate might be, was better than furnishing the
funeral baked meat for a lupine holiday. Then, about 1902, came the
late Romulus Z. Linney, who, remembering that his old namesake had
been "fetched up" by wolves, boldly entered on this demesne and
retained possession til his demise, demesne and demise having
different meanings. But he built a rock wing to his four-room
dwelling, which still stands and in which he spent many happy days.
This is the gentleman who, before he had tasted of the delights of
the Tater Hill, was offered a high office in Washington, D. C. In
declining it, he said that he would not give up his spring rambles
in the Brushy Mountains of Wilkes for any office within the gift of
the American people. But he gave them up for Tater Hill!
The Grandfather Mountain.–Following is Miss Morley's description of
this oldest mountain on earth: "The path beyond the river [Watauga]
is cut through dense kalmia and rhodendron maximum (our laurel) that
make a wide band along the base of the mountain, then it leads up
and up through the more open forest. There is no sweeter walk in the
world than up Grandfather Mountain, where the path winds among the
trees, a canopy of leaves screening the sky, the forest shutting
from view the outer world. Once there were large wild cherry trees
on the slopes of the Grandfather, but the wood being valuable . . .
there are only saplings left, and a few patriarchs that, though
useless for lumber, give an air of dignity to the forest in company
with the clear gray shafts of the tulip trees, the grand old
chestnuts, the oaks, the maples, beeches, birches, ashes and lindens
that mingle their foliage with that of the pines and spruces.
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"You pass beside or under large detached boulders covered with
saxifrages, sedums, mosses and ferns, and in whose crevices
mountain-ash trees and twisted hemlocks have taken root as though
for purposes of decoration, and in the damp hollows away from the
path great jack vines hang from tree tops. The rock ledges sometimes
make caves where bears were wont to live, for the Grandfather was
once a famous place for bears. Squirrels still 'use on the
mountain,' as the people say, and a 'boomer' will be apt to bark
down at you as you go along. You hear the waters of a stream in the
ravine below, and here and there you cross a natural garden of 'balimony'
or some other precious herb that the people gather in the season.
About two-thirds of the way up you take a path that branches off to
the left and leads you over the mossy rocks to an open place on the
edge of a gorge, where, looking off, you see the clear-cut profile
of the Grandfather sculptured on the edge of a rocky bluff, the
bushy hair that rises from the forehead consisting of fir trees that
when whitened by the winter snow give a venerable appearance to the
stone face. Somewhat above this profile from this pint is also
visible another, with smaller and rounder features, which of course
is the Grandmother.
"Returning to the main path and continuing the ascent, the way grows
wilder and, if possible, sweeter. One has a sense of rising
spiritually as well as physically. At the base of a high cliff,
framed in foliage and crowned with the rosy-flowered rhododendron
catawbiense, gushes out the famous Grandfather Spring that is only
ten degrees above freezing throughout the summer. Up to this point
there is a bridle path; beyond here it is necessary to walk The
rose-bay still in bloom clings to the rocks, in whose crevices
little dwarf trees have taken root along with the mosses, ferns and
saxifrages.
"The path gets very steep and rocky. You are now among the balsam
firs, those trees to name which is to name a perfume, and you go
climbing up over their strong red roots. The pathway becomes a
staircase winding about moss-trimmed rocks in whose crevices are
tiny contorted balsams like Japanese flower-pot trees. Enormous
coal-black lichens hang from the
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cliffs and the ground is softly carpeted with mossy growths and
oxalis, out from whose pretty pale leaves look myriads of pink and
white blossoms. Long after the rhododendron catawbiense is done
blooming below, one finds it in its prime on the high peaks of the
Grandfather.
"Up among the balsam firs and about the rocks grow large sour
gooseberries and enormous sweet huckleberries and it was here we
found a new and delicious fruit The bushes crowding the woods in
places were loaded with bright red globes the size of a small
cherry, each dangling from a slender stem. These delightful berries
were mere skins of juice, tiny wine-bottles full of refreshment for
a summer day . . . we discovered them on other mountains, though
never much below an altitude of six thousand feet . . . Up through
the spruces and balsams you mount in the resplendent day, lingering
at every step . . . Thus climbing through the resplendent day you
reach the summit, 'Calloway's High Peak,' the highest point on the
mountain, but from which one cannot command the circle of the
horizon. It is necessary to get the view from two points, which is
all the better. The rocks at the lookout towards the south being
covered with heather, one can lie on the delightful couch studded
all over with little white starry flowers, to rest and receive the
view . . . In the distance lies White Top, on whose summit three
States meet . . .
"Leaving this place and walking on to the point that looks to the
south, one shares the feelings and almost the faith of Michaux. The
view is very impressive, because of that steep descent of the
mountain into the foothills, the long spurs sweeping down in fine
lines to a great depth . . . The Black Mountains stand forth very
high and very blue , and beyond them, among the many familiar forms,
are distinguished what one supposes to be the faint blue line of the
Smokies, or is it the nearer Balsams? . . . Sooner or later you will
find your way to McRae's, which is to the south side of the
Grandfather what Calloway's is to the north side, a farmhouse, where
you can stay awhile. There is a trail over the end of the
Grandfather by which you can go directly from Calloway's to McRae's,
but to
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strike this trail you have to walk down the Linville River, which,
rising in an open space but a stones throw from the head of the
Watauga, flows in quite the opposite direction, and through so
narrow a pass that you have to keep crossing and recrossing it, no
small matter in a season of rains, for there are no foot logs at all
. . . But the Linville is one of the streams you are glad to know
through all its sparkling length, from the spring behind the
Grandfather to where it escapes in wild glee through the gorge below
the falls. There are peacocks at McRae's, and Mr. McRae has not
forgotten how to play on the bagpipes that have so stirred the blood
of his race . . . But you will have to coax him to do it. McRae's
stands on the Yonahlossee road that connects Linville, just below
the mountain, with Blowing Rock . . . From McRae's there is a path
up the Grandfather . . . to another peak reached by a very sweet
climb through the balsams, which, in this region, are smaller and
more companionable than the straight giants of the Black Mountains,
these of the Grandfather being twisted and friendly and profoundly
fragrant. From this peak one can see in all directions, excepting
where one of the Grandfather's black summits obstructs the view.
"It is the lichens growing an [sic] the rocks that give so sombre an
appearance to the top of the Grandfather, those big, black lichens
with loose and curled up edges. Grandfather's black, rocky top is
eight miles long, and once Mr. Calloway (with the assistance of
others) blazed out a rude trail so that we could all take that
wonderful knife-edge walk up in the sky over the peaks of the
Grandfather, Indian ladders--that is a tall tree trunk from which
the branches have been lopped, leaving protruding ends for
steps--helping us up otherwise insurmountable cliffs.
"The Yonahlossee road ought to be followed early in the summer, for
then the meadowy tops of the long spurs are like noble parks created
for man's pleasure. The rhodondendron catawbiense lies massed about
in effective groups and covered with rosy bloom, beyond which one
looks out over a wide landscape of mountains and clouds. From these
open, flower-decked spaces
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the road passes into the shadowy forest, to emerge upon a bushy
slope where blazing reaches of flame-colored azaleas astound your
senses. There are other flowers along the way, but you scarcely see
them, intoxicated as you are with the glory of the rhododendrons,
and after them the azaleas, for these marvelous growths almost never
blossom within sight of each other You would say they know, like
ladies at a ball, how important it is to avoid each other's colors.
"Under the trees along the roadside the earth is covered with a
superb carpet of large and handsome galax leaves, for the
Grandfather is distinguished by the great beauty and abundance of
its galax. Laurel, too, claims standing room on the side of the
grand old mountain, and here, as elsewhere, one notices the apparent
capriciousness of the laurel, which forms an impenetrable jungle for
long stretches and then stops short, not a laurel bush to be seen
for some distance, when with equal suddenness it reappears again.
"The splendid slopes of the Grandfather are enchanting also when
autumn colors them--deep red huckleberry balds, trees wreathed in
crimson woodbine, vivid sassafras, tall gold and crimson and scarlet
forest trees--it seems more like the brilliant display of a northern
forest. You would say that the outpouring of fragrance must pass
with the summer. Not so. As you walk among the trees in their thin,
bright attire you have a feeling of their friendliness. The forest,
as it were, breathes fumes that distil from a thousand pines, firs
and hemlocks. When the leaves of the trees are growing scarce and
changing to duller hues, into the open spaces witch-hazel weaves its
gold-wreathed wands and brightens the woods like sunshine.
"Turning to the right from the Yonahlossee Road, a short distance up
from McRae's, you walk along under the chestnut trees just beginning
to open their burs, away from the Grandfather out over a beautiful
spur that ends in an open, rounded summit. The road to this place
has side paths that lead you to high cliffs, whence you look off
towards Blowing Rock, and where the sweetest of mountain growths
cling to the crevices
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